Wtfoffers McQueen is a perfect case study in what the luxury industry is secretly reminding itself of: aura has its limits. After years of overexposure, endless products, and that tragic McQ spread line, the brand is starting to backslide. Distribution tightens, access dwindles, and suddenly brands start to feel interesting again. The moment everyone can participate, the prestige is lost.
To be honest, I fell out of love with McQueen for a while. As logoed hoodies, sneakers, and countless outlet stocks began circulating, the feeling of “I’m lucky to have this” turned into “Oh, everyone has this.” The decision to kill Mack Q in 2022 was cruel, but necessary. You can’t rebuild mystique while flogging your cousin in the bargain bin.
And that’s the bigger problem plaguing luxury right now.
Are you playing the long game or are you selling out for quarterly numbers?
Because when you look at where Dolce & Gabbana, Gucci, and even Bottega Veneta are heading, you can feel the tension between these two paths.
Dolce & Gabbana: Maximalism without magic
Dolce & Gabbana used to feel rich. We are particular about not only the price but also the structure. Durable fabrics with heavy embroidery, detailed lace, hugging, and carvings. Clothes that are heavy in every sense of the word.
now? The storytelling is still flashy, but too many works, such as Sicily, Familia, and Baroque Catholic dramas, don’t support fantasy when touched upon. Thinner fabrics, lighter linings, and zippers you won’t think will survive your grandchildren.
It’s not all bad – couture-level pieces and runway-grabbing pieces clearly still involve some serious work – but entry-level RTW and accessories often feel more on the label than on craftsmanship.
That’s the danger zone. That’s when customers start saying:
“I’m paying Dolce prices for something that no longer feels like Dolce.”
Once that perception takes root, no celebrity campaign can save you.
Gucci: from cultural moment to logo fatigue
Gucci, under the direction of Alessandro Michele, made a cultural impact. For several years, it was the language of fashion: crushed prints, granny cardigans, and all things geek-chic. Such success is both intoxicating and dangerous.
Because such success encourages one more thing.
More products, more drops, more logos, more collaborations, more makeup, more sneakers, more outlets, more of everything.
And when “more” becomes a business model, quality is usually the first bend. It wasn’t dramatic at first. A slightly lighter knit here, a lower grade lining there, less sturdy hardware, a bag that doesn’t age as beautifully as the old one. But high-end customers are taking notice. They always are.
Gucci is currently in a difficult transition period. While the world is turning to “quiet luxury” and less logos, Gucci continues to struggle with the hangover of being the loudest brand on the scene for years. Increasing prices and reducing collections are two different things. We also need to rebuild confidence in the quality of our products.
Bottega Veneta: When ‘stealth wealth’ becomes a trend
Bottega was once an insider whisper. There’s no logo, just super-soft leather and construction precise enough that you can tell what it is from across the room. “When Your Initials Are Enough” was more than just a tagline. That was philosophy.
Bottega’s recent era has been a huge success with pouches, jodies, padded cassettes, puddle boots, and more. Catnip on Instagram. waiting list. Intrecciato is worn by all the influencers around the world.
But that explosion came with the same old risks: scale.
When you’re producing a ton of “IT” bags, you’re asking your factory to deliver F1 speed with haute couture expectations. Unless you defend that ship ferociously, something will be given.
People are now comparing Bottega’s old pieces with new ones. The question is not “Is this good?” – That is, “Is Bottega still good?” If the answer starts to lean toward “not,” you’ve given up on the very thing that makes you stand out.
Everyone wants to be Hermes – except in important ways
This is the funniest and saddest part of this discussion. Everyone wants Hermes margins, Hermes waiting lists, Hermes resale value. No one wants the discipline of Hermes.
Hermès has been playing the long game for decades.
- There are no outlet stores.
- There is no deep discount season.
- Not a performative one, but a real rarity.
- Craft as the absolute heart of the brand.
- Refuse to follow every micro-trend on TikTok.
Given several price hikes, “VIP only” capsules, and performance rarity, there’s no way you’ll “catch up” with it in five years. You can’t increase respect.
But that’s what many brands are trying to do.
- Raise prices to levels adjacent to Hermès.
- Flood social media with ambitious campaigns.
- We produce at a speed close to that of fast fashion.
- Then we talk about “tradition” and “craftsmanship” as if the products reflect that.
Customers aren’t stupid either. They feel that the stitching isn’t perfect, the leather doesn’t age gracefully, the seams aren’t right, and it doesn’t hold up well to dry cleaning. You can get the price of Hermes without the soul of Hermes. And now many celebrities are floating there.
The real divide: obsession and trading
The main difference between luxury goods today is not whether they have a logo or no logo, or whether they are quiet or noisy. It is as follows:
- Obsession brands – brands that make you dream, save, wait, and cherish. They protect their aura with unrelenting selectivity and uncompromising products.
- Trading Brands – Brands that treat you as an indicator. How many units can we sell this quarter? How many SKUs can we spin out of this monogram? How many influencers can we dress this season?
McQueen’s withdrawal means a retreat into obsession. They were overexposed, they felt it, they had the courage to slam on the brakes and shut down the ugly lines that were eating away at their name. It’s painful in the short term, but it protects your brand in the long term.
Dolce & Gabbana, Gucci, Bottega, and others are at this crossroads in many ways. They can no longer continue pursuing the volume game, cheap-feeling quality, and wonder why people no longer hold their breath when passing by their store.
Consumers have changed, but brands haven’t caught up.
The industry still acts as if customers are blinded by logos and signage. But after years of overconsumption, economic uncertainty, and resale platforms exposing the real value of products, shoppers have become far more critical.
People are asking:
- Do you think this will continue for about 10 years?
- Why do I feel like my vintage items are better made than new ones?
- Is this price about craftsmanship or about shareholders?
- If everything is “exclusive”, why is everything on sale?
Consumers are tired of brands slashing prices just for the sake of a sale and preaching about “timeless luxury,” whether it’s flash sales, outlets, or collaborations with moving objects. Consistency, not hype, is key in the long run.
So where does the discussion land?
The luxury goods industry is under exactly the kind of tension you describe.
- Like Hermès, they are playing a long-term game of reducing the number of stores, tightening distribution, focusing on quality, reducing volume, increasing loyalty, and growing slowly but deeper.
- Selling out: more products, more collaborations, more spread lines, more discounts, more speed, more appeasement of investors, and a gradual loss of prestige.
McQueen seems to be choosing the former. Dolce & Gabbana, Gucci, Bottega Veneta and others are somewhere in the messy middle, behaving like quantity-driven fashion brands while aspiring to Hermes-level status.
In the end, it’s up to you to decide. If people start buying vintage, niche brands, independent artisans, and really picky homes instead, the message will become clear.
We’re not just looking for Hermès prices.
We want the Hermès principle.
Until major companies accept this, we will continue to have the same problems. In other words, you can’t become an obsessive if you act like a salesperson.
