Wtfoffers Okay, now you understand how to talk about loafers, and now you want to buy them. what do you want? This is a guide, not a list of brands.
Well, first you need to decide whether you want moccasin-style horsebits or apron-toe style loafers. Mock toes are more versatile in that they look more interesting and are easier to dress down. Both styles can be worn with a suit, but the apron toe is sleeker and probably easier for most people to appreciate.
Next, you need to decide what aesthetic approach you want to take. Do you want something relatively classic, or something a little more modern and unique? Something you can wear to work or to stand out in Soho? Shorts, jeans, dark suits, tuxedos… Or what looks good with different outfits?
I prefer mock toe. Do they look a little stupid? Yes, but that’s a good thing. On penny loafers, the mock toe becomes a casual detail. But when the horsebit loafer, a black calf mock-toe with gold horsebits, was introduced, it became the shoe of choice for New York bankers to wear with suits. This history allows the Mock Toe Horsebit to be easily dressed up or down and look cool in each situation. I think of them as unique A versatile shoe.
You can only purchase one brand initially. Yes, it’s an expensive brand.
gucci 1953
gucci 1953 loafers teeth original horsebit loafers. It’s in a museum. Despite being a traditional choice, Gucci’s horsebit loafers are also a decidedly expensive high-fashion choice. A $920 shoe is well made, but it’s not a $920 well made shoe. A single piece leather sole with brake stitching means they should be more comfortable than many other dress shoes. The shape of the Horsebit is good and the shoe has a good ‘toe spring’. This means that the toe area points upwards from the ground, as opposed to other shoes where the toe remains flat.
The replicas mentioned below, Carmina’s XIM Last and Allen Edmonds’ Verona II, are heavily imitated. These are very similar molds and I’m sure they are better leathers from what I’ve heard and seen in stores. Also, I was told that the construction is better, but I think they are all break-stitched single leather soles… Really, with Gucci, you pay for tradition and name… or , because you’re doing that, I’m not sure if other options are better.
Gucci also uses fun colors, and there are some styles with logos and colored straps, which I think are silly, but I think if you’re into conspicuous consumption, there’s another reason to buy. Masu.
Something like Gucci and other mock toes
These brands make loafers that are an homage to Gucci in 1953. better. I don’t think they are Copy product Anything is fine, but if you want to keep it as authentic as possible, go for Gucci. For those who want to save money and get better shoes…
Carmina’s XIM Last Horsebit Loafers are amazing. Will probably buy a pair soon. I won’t exceed this value, but I’ll try to list the alternatives anyway. We also make many products for women.
The main advantage of the Allen Edmonds Verona II over the Carmina is that it is easier to find an Allen Edmonds store and try it on. Allen Edmonds also offers a variety of widths, so if you have wide feet, buy them now. These are also expensive, and if you’re lucky, they may even go on sale. Oh, Bologna’s construction method is weird, but probably pretty good
Alden’s regular Horsebit loafers are ugly as sin, but the Cape Cod model is pretty nice. It’s also produced by Oak Street Bootmakers, so instead of paying Alden’s markup, you just buy from them.
Rancourt is known for making classic American loafers, and they offer excellent horsebits in both classic styles with leather soles and more flattering lug-sole models. The Ivy Horsebit loafer by Leffot has a slightly different last and is made from shell cordovan. It’s okay to spend a little money.
Let’s start with Gucci again. I think Jordan in particular is very typical. The apron toe is sleeker, more modern, and…not quite as cool if you ask me, but still pretty cool. It’s shaped more like a regular dress shoe, which I think takes away some of the appeal. Mock-toed horsebit loafers were historically associated with New York City’s wealthy bankers and lawyers (among others), so you can still dress them up if you like. Still, some beauties will work better with these flatter, smoother lasts. In particular, I think this last goes best with vintage Armani or lazy, extravagant types of clothing. Imagine being on vacation and wearing loose silk from head to toe.
Although Ferragamo is no longer popular, it is an alternative fashion choice. The current design is nothing special. The platonic ideal of a Ferragamo foot type is elongated, flatter, and angular compared to everything else on this list. Their Horsebit has a flat bar on the inside, as opposed to Gucci’s round shape, which I think looks a little silly. Still, this style is somewhat historic and fits well with a certain vibe from the 80s and 90s. I can’t find a detailed history, but it was definitely in its heyday, and it seems like a yuppie shoe to me. Their “Tremezza” line should be very well made (but given the prices they charge, you should start considering custom-made shoes instead). I don’t know how you buy classic Ferragamo-style horsebit loafers these days, but Gucci Jordans might.
Again, Carmina is a great brand for value. Horsebit loafers for men are available in four different lasts, giving you a wide range of options. And for women, there are plenty of unique options, like quilted horsebits. Note, however, that none of these lasts imitate Gucci Jordaan or classic Ferragamo style.
For women, mermin is also suitable for apron toes.
The Morjas have an apron toe that isn’t too slick, making them a good intermediate shoe (though I think they’re better with mocks). Use this link or referral code yyl87w7rqj to get $20 off.
Blackstock & Weber is the current king of hype loafers, especially known for these lug-soled loafers. They also make two-tone colors, unusual patterns, colors and textures… take a look around the entire collection.
Horatio London also makes some similarly cool loafers. While the brand itself isn’t hype, it’s a similar approach to design.
While Yuketen is generally known for their really cool and quirky shoes, the Horsebit is mostly a pretty standard, classic mock toe (with a few exceptions). But they’re still cool brands, so we’ll round them up here. (A friend of mine posted about how he bought his shoes for $220 five years ago. I’m jealous. That’s an outrageous price.)
The best tip for keeping your budget in check is to buy second-hand. You can search for the brands listed above on eBay or view them in person. Do you understand what you’re looking for?
The second budget tip is that cheap suede is better than cheap smooth leather. I could explain why in detail, but never mind, just try suede.
But if you want to buy something new…I wouldn’t recommend Aldo. This shoe is not like that. too much cheap.
Meermin is one of the best value brands in the footwear category. $200 may not be cheap, but it’s worth choosing. The only reason I’m listing other brands here is because I have trouble trying on Meermins.
Beckett Simonon shoes are very well made and sometimes go on sale. There’s a little spring in the toe, which is a good thing. There are better options for ~$220 (especially Meermin), but if you buy through one of the specials/sales/sales, it can be a standout on your budget.
I’ve heard some good things about Jay Butler as well. It’s pretty solid for $229 and comes in a variety of styles.
Bass Weejuns are…still around $200. However, it sometimes goes on sale, so I still think it’s a bargain model. These aren’t really reasonable competitors to any of the brands mentioned above. Their leather and construction leave a lot to be desired. But they have some history, and some people like the last one.
Sebago also makes some interesting styles in the range of around 200 euros and sometimes has sales.
I think Gucci’s furry Princetown mules are pretty cool, but they’re definitely out of the trend cycle and just look silly overall. Unless you know what you’re doing to them.
Paul Stuart is wearing velvet Horsebit slippers and…erm…patent leather Horsebit Opera pumps. Yeah, so if you want to try horsebits in evening wear, that’s a problem.
Tom Ford makes chain loafers similar to Horsebit loafers. As an alternative, consider the Solovair x Golf le Fleur product. The chain is technically a logo, but I still think it’s cool.
Single monk/buckle “loafer”. These are loafers as much as they are slip-ons, so the buckle may or may not be considered technically, depending on how functionally important it is. A metal buckle serves as part of the horsebit’s visual function. I like this anthology.
Cole Haan and other mass market companies make really bad Holebit loafers. The horse bit requires an oval ring. However, in cheaper brands you often see something like a rectangular horsebit, which I think is ugly. In some cases, like Tod’s, it’s just a straight metal bar with no rings. Nothing good, just a straight metal rod glued to the saddle. It’s crap, but I think I’d consider them in the same category as bit loafers, just a terrible attempt at style. Most of these brands are cemented and the leather is terrible. One of the benefits of Cole Haan is that they are known for their comfort. It doesn’t look good, and it probably won’t last long, but oh well.
Oh, and I’ve seen Cole Haan’s vintage Horsebit loafers, which were actually quite nice…I hope I can find a pair of them.
Lug sole loafers with metal logo plates were very popular at Prada for a while. I don’t care about them. It feels to me that people are mostly obsessed with brands.
A Horsebit driver is usually the same as a cheap, mass-market Horsebit loafer, except it’s a driver. Good shoemakers usually don’t make screwdrivers. Because why bother using good leather for shoes that don’t even leave your car?
If you’re looking to buy a screwdriver to wear outside your car, you’ll probably be confused. Can I recommend buying loafers instead?
