The white tuxedo jacket is back – by Gabriel, chef at Emily in Paris

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There are also menswear items that are not very trendy. They disappear in a few years and come back at a moment when the culture is looking for a little glamor again. A white tuxedo jacket is one of them. In Emily in Paris, Chef Gabriel (Lucas Bravo) has a certain effortless charm that makes classic tailoring feel modern, and the boldest version of “modern” is exactly what you’ve noticed. Instead of the usual crisp dress shirt and bow tie, the white dinner jacket has a low, rounded neckline underneath, and there’s enough skin to tell you this isn’t a uniform. That’s a statement.

That’s the point. White tuxedo jackets were once worn on formal evenings in warmer climates. Now it also comes in handy for nights out, holiday parties, premieres, rooftop dinners, and any other time you want the energy of black tie without looking like you’re headed to a hotel awards banquet.

Fashion is important in Emily in Paris. Because fashion is part of storytelling. Costume designer Marilyn Fitussi has repeatedly spoken about using clothes to build character rather than playing it safe, and she even released an official fashion guide that reveals just how big her wardrobe world is behind the scenes. This same “character first” logic is exactly why white tuxedo jackets are working so well right now. Classic form, but you can choose your own story.

James Bond has already done this (quietly, perfectly)

If you want original proof that a pale dinner jacket looks deadly, it’s James Bond. Sean Connery’s Bond wears an ivory dinner jacket in Goldfinger. The warm-weather black tie movement is sophisticated without being flashy. Classic details are key here. Self-lapels (rather than shiny silk surfaces), clean jetted pockets, and a single-button front are some of the elements that give the look an expensive, controlled feel.

Its Bond formula is the “gold standard” when it comes to timelessness.

But with a modern twist, Chef Gabriel’s energy is to wear the same jacket and relax everything underneath.

First: White, ivory or off-white?

This is where most men make a mistake. Not all “white” jackets behave the same.

  • Ivory/off-white looks richer and more forgiving (and photographs beautifully) in warmer lighting. It also feels more traditionally correct when it comes to dinner jackets.
  • Bright optical white is sharper, more fashionable, has more contrast, and is perfect for nightlife, but it can lean into “stuff jacket” territory if the styling is too literal.

If you’re going for the low-cut shirt approach, ivory/off-white is usually a more elegant choice since it says “Riviera” rather than “Catering”.

2 ways to wear it

1) Bondway (classic black tie)

This can be used at weddings, galas, black tie dinners, or anywhere you want to look right.

formula

  • white/ivory dinner jacket
  • black tuxedo pants (satin stripes)
  • white formal shirt
  • black bow tie
  • patent leather shoes

This is still the cleanest way to wear a white dinner jacket, and many modern tailoring guides recommend wearing something closer to the classic black tie when choosing white.

2) “Gabriel” Way (Modern, sensual, not a hard worker)

This is the style you are expressing. With a white tuxedo jacket as the frame, what lies underneath is intentionally unexpected.

What to wear underneath (ranked from simplest to boldest):

  • Open collar shirt (no tie, top 2-3 buttons removed)
  • Silk/viscose knit polo shirt with deep placket
  • Fine gauge knit T-shirt with a slightly wider neckline
  • Low, rounded scoop neck top (a bold move)

The secret is fit and fabric. The underlayer should look intentional. It should be smooth, sophisticated, not flimsy, and form-fitting.

How to wear a low-cut shirt without looking like a costume

If you want your heartwarming moments to feel “editorial” rather than “club promoter,” use these guardrails.

Please make sure to wear pants.
Black tailored pants (or tuxedo pants) will round out your look and keep it from looking cluttered.

Please select only one “noisy” element.
If the neckline is bold, everything else should be quiet. Avoid clean lapels, minimal jewelry, flashy belts, and novelty loafers.

Think of it as a “glitter of skin” rather than a “skin parade.”
The most stylish version has a low-set neckline, but a well-structured, high-quality knit that holds its shape.

Appearance is more important than you think.
This does not mean that you will lose your hair. That’s the proper thing to do. Since the jacket is sharp, the details need to be sharp as well.

When is a white tuxedo jacket best?

White dinner jackets traditionally look great on warm-weather nights. That logic also applies to terraces, resorts, summer weddings, seaside restaurants, etc.

A note on modern etiquette: Be careful at very traditional black-tie events (where black is expected) and avoid settings where staff uniforms may reflect your appearance.

In other words, it’s great for fashion-driven nights, but dangerous for conservative nights.

Outfit ideas you can easily copy

“Bonds have been renewed.”

  • Ivory dinner jacket (peak or shawl lapels)
  • black tuxedo pants
  • white dress shirt, black bow tie
  • black patent shoes
    Classic, bulletproof. (Bond suit)

“Chef Gabriel Night Out”

  • white dinner jacket
  • Black tailored pants (high waist if you want to wear it fashionably)
  • black scoop neck knit top
  • black loafers or sophisticated lace-ups
  • Options: one ring or delicate chain
    The jacket remains formal. The neckline gives a modern look.

riviera dinner date

  • off white jacket
  • black pants (no breaks, slim)
  • Cream knit polo (deep placket, no logo)
  • Brown suede loafers or black loafers (depending on tone)
  • White/cream pocket square (flat and without bulges)

Fashion week variations

  • bright white jacket
  • black wide pants
  • Black fine-knit turtleneck (cool weather)
  • chelsea boots
    This transforms the idea of ​​a “chest” into a more architectural silhouette.

Make an expensive-looking notebook fit

  • One-button closures are the most timeless. (Bond suit)
  • The peak lapels give you a sense of strength. The shawl lapel has a classic Hollywood feel. Both work. (Bond suit)
  • Keep your shoulders neat and structured. White shows every wrinkle, every crumble, every cheap pad.

If the buttons on your jacket pull or create an “X” crease on your stomach, it’s too tight. White fabric reduces poor fit than black.

Why is this “resurrection of the white jacket” relevant now?

Pop culture is once again craving romance, escapism, and a little ceremony. And Emily in Paris is basically a visual mood board for that. Recent coverage of the show’s wardrobe has highlighted how the styling is purposefully constructed to evoke emotion and imagination (rather than blend in). (People.com)

A white tuxedo jacket is just such a signal piece. It shows the effort I put into it, but I also leave room for individuality, whether I opt for Bond-level classicism or Chef Gabriel’s confident, slightly risky modernity.

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