To talk about denim

I started writing the “How to Talk About” guide with the idea that no one should feel stupid talking about clothes. If you are reading this blog, there are no stupid questions.

We’ll explain everything from “What are jeans?” “What is sanforization and mercerization?” But we’re not going to stop there. We’ll also focus on what makes denim special. Why do people prefer raw denim? Why do you like sashiko and futa? What about the different types of trucker jackets? Hederus used to have a dictionary, but I’m going beyond that and trying to share not just the definition, but the ethos.

You’ll hear me generally dismissing everything I say as pedantic and nonsensical, but you’ll also find me pointing out exactly why these detailed definitions are important. If this seems strange, it’s because reality is strange. And also because I’ve spent years writing this article.

Again, it is not necessary to read this guide from cover to cover. Feel free to jump to the words you’re always confused about, or skim the headings for the sections that actually interest you.

(Fun fact: I re-wrote most of this article three times and accidentally deleted it. That’s why I’ve been working on this article for years. But now I can finally read it! Please subscribe so I don’t go crazy thinking all that effort was in vain!

Quick: Denim cotton twill composed of fabric indigo and white thread.

Specifically, denim distorted face Indigo warp and white cotton twill (2:1 or 3:1) weft. I know this sounds pedantic, and I’m going to go over some things that don’t exactly fit that definition, but I’d also like to point out why the obscure details of that definition are an important part of what makes denim denim.

Denim is known for its durability (often thick, heavy twill) and the visual texture created by the weave. For these reasons, it is often, but not always, used for workwear and other harsh applications.

If you are particular about etymology. The name denim originates from Nimes, France. It was originally known as “Serge de Nîmes”. However, denim is not serge and is woven in a variety of ways. Note that no one claims that denim has to be made of neem. You can make denim anywhere, not DOP like some fancy Italian cheese. Japanese denim is often some of the most premium denim available.

wool The pants are clearly not made of denim. No, your dress pants are not jeans.

Chino The fabric is not denim. It seems obvious, but the difficult part is…Chinos are made of cotton twill. Like denim. But they feel different. Chinos have a crisp, airy feel, are wrinkled, and may have a kind of waxiness. It may be as durable as denim, but it wrinkles easily. There is no clear definition of “chino cloth” other than cotton twill, and the difference is subtle. This person uses one piece of chinos and one piece of denim fabric to dig into the finer details. But I don’t know if you want to point out one of these as a definitive difference, but as far as you’re concerned, they’re different and you’ll know it when you see it.

woven fabric Plain color or satin The weave is not denim. a jacquard weave is also not denim…unless it is, this is strange because a jacquard weave is a textile made on a jacquard loom, since a jacquard loom is a computer device. It can be programmed to weave almost any pattern…including denim, I think.

chambray It’s not denim. Chambray is a plain weave, and denim is a twill. Although they both combine indigo and white threads to create a somewhat similar textural effect, we don’t consider denim and chambray shirts interchangeable, as the differences can significantly affect feel and durability, as well as weight and color. Still, many brands confuse the two, so be careful. Every time you see a “denim chambray” shirt, there’s bound to be a question you want to ask because someone somewhere is wrong.

One way to tell the difference between denim and chambray is to go backwards Fabric side (non-fabric side) facei.e. inside the garment). Denim should look different on the back side because the warp is twill on the front side. More white wefts show through and only a hint of indigo is visible. Because the plain weave is uniform, chambray is usually very similar on both sides. Note: The face can also be called the “front”. This is obviously the opposite of “back”, but…don’t do it.

hickory stripe The fabric is not denim. It’s actually a type of seersucker. However, it is usually a thick indigo-dyed cotton and is often used in workwear and other clothing that would otherwise be made from denim.

corduroy, velveteenother pile fabrics are not denim.

Fustian is not denim, but ostensibly it refers to the fabric used for pants originally called “jeans.” More on that later.

trucker jacket It may or may not be made of denim. five pocket pants It may or may not be made of denim. Wrangler Wrancher’s “dress jeans” are usually made of polyester (and are not dressy at all).

Now let’s look at some of the trickier cases.

Black, white, and colored denim do not have Technically denim. Indigo thread and white thread are the characteristics of denim. Plain blue or plain white twill do not have denim. Garment dyed twill is do not have denim. If you really want to be a purist, It was done Some would even argue that twill dyed in the warp with a blue dye other than indigo is not denim, but I’m not that pedantic either.

You could draw a line here, but the situation would become ambiguous. Do you call five-pocket pants or a trucker jacket black denim, but not black denim for another garment? Black twill on white is called denim, but black on black is not denim? Are you pointing out any special treatments? The only clear border is the formal definition, which does not include colors other than blue.

That being said, there’s nothing wrong with colored twill. Black, white, and off-white are common and look very nice. Most of what I have to say about denim also applies to colored twill. Please be aware of the technical differences.

White, off-white, undyed, or “natural” is often referred to as “denim.” “Ecru” denim. If calling it that makes you feel like Patrick Bateman, stop. In some cases, brands not only don’t dye the cotton, but they don’t even remove the cotton seed spots. This is known as seed denim. It’s basically unbleached denim with some small black spots.

Now, some more pedantic bad news. stretch denim and most performance denim It’s like…it’s not even denim. By definition, denim is cotton twill. If you want to adhere strictly to that definition, any blend is not denim. The universal blend of 98% to 2% cotton and elastane is not technically denim. Polyester, linen, lyocell, etc. blend It’s not denim. And indigo-dyed wool twill is not denim.

Maybe you don’t care. In a practical sense, pants that meet the definition of denim can have 2% elastin mixed in and still look a lot like denim. You can call it denim as long as it makes sense to you.

But it differs from real denim in some ways that you’ll probably notice if you’re paying attention. Fabrics containing elastane and polyester typically do not age or drape as well as pure cotton twill. Elastane in particular loses its elasticity after a few years, so stretchy clothing turns into hot garbage faster. The thick pure cotton twill gives the denim its characteristic structure and ages in a specific way. Some brands create “natural stretch” by changing the weave, etc., but this also affects drape and other properties, so even if it looks similar to denim, it is not the same. As we’ll see later, people love the way denim ages. I have called this distinction pedantic, but it has practical weight.

Again, I’m not saying all blends or alternative ingredients are bad. That might be more comfortable. Hemp and lyocell offer environmental benefits. The Apolis wool chore coat was one of the hottest items in menswear when it was first released. It faded and aged in a way that people loved it. While some of these items may look better or feel better, they are not technically denim by the strictest definition. (Elastin is still bad. Don’t buy clothing that contains elastin).

A denim brand that enjoys a certain kind of extraordinary experience dying techniquelike went too far or persimmons witheror sometimes use colored weft Or any other funky stuff. I tend to think of this as still mostly denim, but there’s a fine line between something a little extra and colored twill.

I have a jacket flocked denimwhich is treated with regular denim and has color added on top of it. The additional colors are designed to fade relatively quickly and slowly reveal the denim underneath. I feel like this still counts as denim since the excess is another layer on top of regular denim…but on the other hand, it doesn’t look like denim when new, at least from the outside.

Some brands make jeans with “”.Trompe l’oeil” Style. “Trempe l’oeil,” French for “to deceive the eye,” refers to an art style that uses surreal elements to create the illusion of three-dimensionality. In the case of denim, the idea is to make pants in a plain color that is not denim, then print a denim texture on top of them to pretend they are woven like denim. A print may appear to age, fade, be patched up, or be manipulated in any way, but it’s still just a print. I think making some of these prints look distressed and having another print “behind” them is actually a cute gimmick that defeats the actual purpose. Still, it’s a unique artistic technique, and there are some cool brands taking advantage of it.

Oh boy.

Okay, so let’s start with cotton. I’m not going to bother talking about rivets, zippers, etc. For now, let’s focus on how the fabric itself is made. Yes, it starts with cotton.

Cotton… is packed with so many things. Growing and harvesting cotton requires a lot of water and a lot of labor. The history of cotton in the United States is not only the history of the founding of the economy, but also the history of slavery. The cotton gin was probably intended to abolish slavery. Instead, it breathed economic life into cotton plantations and perpetuated the cotton industry. And not only cotton, but especially denim, consumes huge amounts of water. A detailed discussion of the social and environmental impacts of cotton is beyond the scope of this article. I’ll touch on it from time to time, but for now, suffice it to say that cotton contains a lot of things.

Anyway, those fluffy little balls of cotton somehow turn into big old bales of cotton and end up in a factory somewhere. That video clearly underestimates the effort. But since we have these intertwined fibers, we want to get long, individualized strands of fibers that we can actually spin into yarn.

Therefore, you may end up combing the cotton. combing Cotton…well, imagine a machine with a big metal comb, imagine teeth. Yes, this is how we separate the cotton. The combing process helps align these fibers into parallel strands, helps filter out the shorter fibers (longer strands are softer and tougher for reasons I’m too lazy to explain right now), and generally prepares them for spinning into yarn.

Alternatively, these fibers are turned into a card. Card machines accomplish the same thing more cheaply. The fibers will not be parallel, the fibers will be shorter and less smooth, and the fabric may pill…but for everyday fabrics like denim, this is generally considered a reasonable trade-off. Combing is usually preferred for high-end products.

spin fibers to make thread

That is, there are several thin cotton fibers. They are thin and weak. It really can’t be used for anything. We want denim to be strong and durable. So what do you do? Take some fibers and spin them to make yarn.

This section may seem pointless, but it becomes important when we talk about left-handed, right-handed, and torn twill. So let me explain it in a little more detail.

a Single yarn It is a bundle of fibers spun together. They can be rotated clockwise. We call this “rotation.” Z twist—or counterclockwise—S twist. Why do we call them singles?

You may want to make the thread even stronger. Hey, what happens if you twist two or three single yarns together? Well, it’s time we talk ply. Ann N strands This is a plied yarn made by twisting N single yarns together. Generally, plied yarns are twisted in the opposite direction to single yarns. Spun a Z-twisted single yarn into an S-twisted yarn, or vice versa. Using the same twist on both levels will make the yarn looser, which may be useful if you want to achieve a certain texture (such as bouclé, which I won’t define here), but it won’t be as durable and is usually not something you want to use for denim.

You can even go a step further and spin the strands to make cables. If you use Z-twist single yarn and S-twist yarn, you will probably need a Z-twist cable. Again, this doesn’t really matter for denim.

Yarns may be intentionally twisted into uneven threads to make them smooth or change the color fall. slab There are small irregularities in the fabric, raised texture, and small black and white spots here and there. This is slub linen fabric. See how sloppy it is? That’s what it means to be sloppy.

The thread is dyed.

First, the thread may be something like this: mercerized. Mercerization is a fancy industrial process that treats cotton with fancy chemicals that make it stronger, change its absorption of dyes, and give it a little shine that some people like.

At this point, most of the yarn is dyed. Weaving the threads before dyeing will give the fabric a firm finish. If you dye the garment at the last minute when it is already a garment, garment dyeit will come out well. However, since denim is indigo twill on a white background, denim Yarn-dyed.

Specifically, it is necessary to dye the thread, which is originally indigo or blue, blue. Yarn that is supposed to be white may be left undyed, bleached or otherwise treated to give it a slightly different “shade” of white.

More specifically, threads that are supposed to be indigo may have been dyed using indigo dye. “True indigo” is made from the indigo plant, but most modern indigo is synthetic. This is because indigo is cheaper, more environmentally friendly, and dyes more evenly. Indigo has another long and complicated history that I cannot go into. But now… Indigo achieves a certain shade of blue and is also known as ‘bleed“It comes from cotton.

Denim is damaged due to bleeding. fadecan produce unusual aging patterns (such as some of the indigo threads bleeding into some of the white threads) and stain whatever it’s sitting on. We’ll talk more about smearing when we talk about disinfection and cleaning, but this may be one reason why some companies are looking to use other synthetic forms of indigo or other blue dyes that aren’t indigo.

In subsequent processes, clothing or fabrics may be dyed or treated to achieve a color that is somewhat different from that seen in the initial dyeing. We’ll do that.

Fabric is made by weaving dyed threads.

You have a bunch of thread and you have to make a sheet of fabric. What is your occupation? you weave Bring the threads together. Specifically, the threads are woven 2:1 or 3:1. twill Weave, 2/3 represents indigo warp1 represents white weft. Denim is warp directionThis means that the outside of the jeans will be bluer because the warp threads (higher numbered indigo threads) are facing outwards. Inside?go backwards“You can see more of the weft, so it’s much lighter. Turn your jeans inside out. Yeah, you know what I mean? That’s what I mean.”

Denim can’t actually be woven by hand, it has a dense weave, so some kind of machine must be used. Those machines are called looms. There are three main types of looms: projectile looms, shuttle looms, and hand looms. Projection looms are by far the most efficient. It’s about 10 times faster and produces more uniform denim than shuttle looms, but handlooms just don’t compare. Firing looms are a little better. Now you may be wondering, “Why use a shuttle loom?” And the answer is…oh boy.

When the shuttle loom reaches the edge of the fabric, it finishes that edge. This is not possible with a projection loom. This doesn’t really matter. Some people claim that shuttle weave is more durable, but that’s not true. However…well, projection looms have been and are used by mass market brands to produce cheap denim. People love artistic craftsmanship that mass market brands don’t do. So they started thinking about finding a self-finished edge made using a shuttle loom. This “self-edge” or “ear“” or “selvedge” denim (which is weird, people) isn’t really better, except that smaller, cooler brands usually make it, and bigger, cheaper brands usually don’t. While some brands prefer, or at least claim to have, the texture created by a shuttle loom, there are other ways to achieve the slimy feel without using a shuttle loom. Well, that’s fine.

To be clear, I’m not saying that selvedge denim is bad. Brands that do this tend to make good denim, so this is really a sign of quality. That’s kind of ridiculous. It’s like a mechanical watch, but is a quartz movement better? yes. In every sense? pretty. But if you’re getting a cool, expensive, well-designed watch that’s made with superior materials, it’s probably going to have a mechanical movement. This is because mechanical movements are more luxurious, more expensive to manufacture, and harder to counterfeit. Not the most practical.

Often self-edges are sealed with colored threads. Often that thread is a red thread. You may see red thread blocking the inside seams of the jeans. Some people think it’s the red thread that makes a self-edge a self-edge, but that’s not the case. Color alone has no meaning. Some people call this thread “.ear id“Because it helps ‘prove’ that denim has ears…but it doesn’t actually prove anything. Many brands simply add red thread to make their jeans look like they have ears.

Some people confuse selvedge denim with raw denim. Those people are confused. Raw denim is often denim with ears, but these characteristics are completely unrelated, and washed denim with ears is quite common.

As you might imagine, handlooms are operated by hand, which makes them even less practical. Khadi is a famous type of textile in India that is made from hand-spun threads and then “hand-woven” (woven on handlooms). Khadi is coarser, but has a clearer appeal to coolness. Khadi was promoted by Mahatma Gandhi as part of India’s self-sufficiency. So khadi denim is cool, although still impractical.

Now we have to talk about the weave direction of denim. Since it is twill, it must be woven in one direction or another. This can be seen from an angle. I swear, this is very interesting. Twill includes left twill, right twill, and broken twill.

Right aya Pretty standard. We use S-twist yarn. left aya Made using Z-twist yarn. It seems that the color fades differently. The right twill is obviously tighter and the left twill gets softer over time, but I don’t know why. But Hederus writes about it. I’m sure this means something to someone.

What should I do if I want to get the twill out? You can go in one direction and then go back and forth in another direction, like a zigzag pattern. this is called herringbone However, if we are talking about denim, it is not called herringbone, but herringbone. broken twill.

Denim tends to twist depending on the weaving direction. Tension travels in different directions and causes problems. Broken twill is one solution to this problem. Sanforizing and washing can also solve most of the problems by reducing shrinkage significantly. That’s why denim is oftendistortedIn order to cancel out the twisting, the material is processed diagonally in advance to cancel out the twisting, or the twisting is eliminated. Especially raw denim, but also do this with washed denim, as denim can get twisted between weaving and washing. Brands sometimes allow twists in their denim because they like twisted denim. Some brands, such as the famous Lemaire, produce pants with twisted side seams to achieve a unique silhouette similar to twisted denim.

The fabric or garment has been sanforized or washed.

In that case your jeans will be either sanforized Or not (left) unpurified), and either washed or not washed (left) raw). The latter is a characteristic of raw denim, whether or not the denim has been laundered when it arrives, but the term can also more narrowly refer to unwashed denim that has not been sterilized. We use the term “raw” simply to refer to unwashed denim, but we will be more specific if needed.

Sanforize This is a special process that heats the denim to stretch it before it arrives. This prevents the jeans from shrinking too much during washing and from fading or fading too quickly. You might think that’s obvious. Of course, you don’t want your clothes to shrink and you don’t want to ruin your sofa. But remember, denim lovers are. obsessed With fade. Untreated denim fades differently. Therefore, it still exists and has its defenders. Please note that untreated raw denim can shrink by more than 10% over time.

Unrefined denim is often associated with raw denim, but its true characteristics are raw denim Is that it? not washed. Washing your denim early can significantly slow down the color fading. When people who are crazy about denim get raw denim, they almost never Please wash. They try their best to make sure their jeans have a certain color fade, but washing can ruin it by slowing the color fading or creating a color fading pattern that only appears with washing (so it’s definitely not cool). However, if you don’t wash your jeans, they will start to smell. Wash your jeans.

If you see the word “rigid” anywhere in a denim product’s name, it generally means it’s made from raw denim.

jeans It’s denim pants. you probably I heard about them. The term is a bit vague and has several different connotations, with “denim” and “pants” being the two that carry the most weight.

“Jeans” and “denim” are sometimes used interchangeably, and some people refer to a denim jacket as a “jeans jacket,” but the word “denim” clearly refers to the fabric, and the word “jeans” refers to denim pants. That’s weird.

Specifically speaking, jeans are usual five pocket pants—Pants with two pockets in the back, two curved pockets in the front, and a small coin pocket inside the right front pocket. This pocket layout differs from the typical slant pocket layout that you are familiar with from sweat pants, dress pants, and most other pants. Because the five-pocket layout kind of sucks, except in certain use cases where the foot moves a certain way or things fall out of the slant pockets.

5-pocket pants usually have belt loops or metal buttons, rivetand synthetic leather or leather patch There may also be a brand logo on the back right side. Levi’s is famous for having a very small red tag in the back pocket with the brand name on it.

rivet These are especially important to the history of denim jeans, and were some of the first innovations that made Levi Strauss & Co. famous. Jacob Davis was buying a lot of denim fabric from Levi Strauss, but when he learned that customers were using it for repairs, he thought of using brass rivets to reinforce stress points. The pair patented it in 1873, and early advertising featured the rivet prominently.

Other than fit, feel, weight, and shade of blue, most jeans are pretty much the same. You can decide on details such as the color of the stitches (usually gold). button fly or zipper flythe details of the leather patch on the back (some brands use different types of vegan patches, but you have to have something there), what metal to use for the buttons and rivets… But you’re mainly looking at the details.

The name “jeans” originates from Genoa, Italy. they were do not have It was originally made of denim, but it’s fustian. Denim was originally created in France as an attempt to imitate jeans. Kind of an oleohydrox situation. Strange. These days, the word “jeans” almost consistently means denim, or at least colored denim-like twill.

Some people call jeans “.”dungarees” originally referred to another fabric called “acorn,” named after a suburb of Mumbai, but some have suggested to me that “dungaree” specifically refers to a particular style of flared pants made of denim used by the U.S. Navy with two patch pockets in the front.

That being said, you can do a lot of weird things with denim. There are also slant pocket denim, pleated denim, and creased denim pants. You can replace the belt loops with belt backs, extended waistbands, side tabs or even a Gurkha style waistband. You can create a USN flare as described above. You can make fatigue pants, double-knee pants, painter pants, cargo pants, or, God forbid, shorts from denim. i blame Jolt In all situations. (Not really, you do).

Of course, you can also play with the fabric you use for your jeans. Anything can be used: colored twill, distressed fabrics, distressed garments, raw, washed, sashiko, rags, etc. Don’t worry.

Oh, by the way Measured value / size adjustment Usually the waist/inseam measurement is about the same as other pants. For example, 34/32 means your waist is 34 inches and your inseam is 32 inches. Common measurements:

• waist Measure the circumference (and sometimes width) of the waistband of your pants. Size labels are usually not measurements. Something listed as a size 32 might be 35 inches in circumference (or 17.5 inches wide). This is sometimes called “vanity sizing.” This can make you think you’re three inches thinner than you actually are.
• inseam This refers to the inside seam from the crotch to the hem, or the length of the leg. Some people wear jeans with longer inseams. stack above.
  • “Stacking” is a term used to refer to the way jeans, especially slim and long, ripple around the lower leg. This is a different term from “break” which describes the interaction of dress pants and shoes. it’s not wrong I would describe jeans as “breaking down” on shoes, if that’s what they do, but that’s not the norm.
• rise Refers to the distance from the waistband to the crotch seam junction. Well, I think I’ll leave the phrase “crotch seam joint” alone. Anyway, “high rise” or “high waist” pants sit higher on the body. Although denim tends to have a lower rise than dress pants, it still has a wide range of rises that work well depending on the outfit. I find the five-pocket layout especially problematic for high-rise pants because I can’t sit comfortably with my phone in my pocket, but that may not be an issue for you.
• Open hem This is the width of the ankle at the hem of each pair of pants. This is a relatively good way to determine how relaxed the pants will fit…but you might want to know your knee width or look at the photos, as the pants may be slim and flared or wide and tapered…or you can try the pants on. boot cut Jeans are usually slightly flared at the hem so they fit comfortably over boots.

If you see a number somewhere in the range 501 to 569, it may specifically refer to Levi’s different fits, each with a code number. Levi’s 501 is an absolute classic…apart from the fact that the shape of the 501 has changed so many times over the years…well, the world is a strange place. Levi’s jeans are so ubiquitous that you’ll sometimes hear people use the Levi’s number code to describe the fit of non-Levi’s jeans (albeit in a rather silly way).

As with denim pants, there is a default layout that you would expect. denim jacket Again, just like denim pants, any type of jacket can be made from denim. Some jackets make more sense than others.

The classic denim jacket is trucker jacketa short one with many fabric strips, a specific pocket layout, and metal buttons. You know what I’m talking about, right? Trucker jackets come in a variety of styles. Again, Levi’s Type I, Type IIand Type III It’s a trucker jacket, but I’d also like to talk about Lee. 101J, 220Jand storm rider Jacket below. All the trucker jackets you are familiar with. Type III and 101J style.

Early denim jackets Cut short enough for truck drivers It’s worn when you have to sit all day without a jacket, hence the name “trucker jacket.”

Sometimes a denim trucker jacket might be a good idea. lined and fake shearling or “Sherpa” lining. However, since genuine shearling is a leather material, you don’t really see people hiding it with denim. It doesn’t matter…unless you want to do a real shearling tracker and forget about denim completely. Some jackets use faux shearling only on the collar, rather than lining the entire body.

May also work with other trucker jackets blanket lining In other words, it is a blanket-like fabric lining material. This adds warmth and coziness. The back side of denim is usually just as comfortable as the front side, but not very comfortable. The lining of blankets usually has some kind of pattern on it. You’ll know it when you see it.

However, you can create any jacket style using denim. Blouson, chore coat, bomber, hoodie, overcoat, blazer…does a denim blazer even make sense? Well… if you want, yes. perhaps.

For such people, a trucker jacket can be made from any material. Todd Snyder uses suede.

Anyway, here’s how we break down the classic styles of trucker jackets:

• Levi’sthe history is mostly from Stridewise
  • Type I (circa 1900): Features one pocket on the left front, a buckle for fastening at the back, and a pleat on the front near the buttons. Although cut short, unlike most styles of trucker jackets, Type I is typically cut looser at the body. Since 1936, Type 1 (and all other chest pockets on trucker jackets) have had pocket flaps and buttons. Until then, pockets were only attached to the chest.
  • Type II (circa 1953): Introduced a second chest pocket. The buckle on the back has been replaced by a two-button side adjuster at the hem of the jacket. The jacket is slim cut and not very short.
  • Type III (circa 1967): An image of a denim jacket in my head. There are two V-shaped seams above each breast pocket. The pleats on the front are gone. The cut is a little longer and a little slimmer, but still quite short.
• Leehere’s an unreasonably detailed guide to all the little changes to these jackets over time. These are commonly referred to as “rider” jackets because they were intended for cowboys who often worked while sitting, such as truck drivers.
  • 101J: The original 101J was closer to the Type I, but was restyled in 1948. Like the Type III, the early 101J has some important differences. The pockets have different angles and curvatures, and instead of a V-shape, you’ll see two straight vertical seams.
  • 220J (1970s): Mostly only 101J with side pockets.
  • storm rider,alias 101L: Based on the 101J, but with added corduroy collar and blanket lining for added warmth. May or may not have side pockets.

As mentioned earlier, lightweight jeans are usually around 12 ounces. Typical shirting material weighs less than half that. Twill shirts are common, so why not try a 5-ounce shirt, for example? Denim shirt? Or…is 12 ounces not enough? Denim shirt?

Denim shirts create an interesting effect. Jeans fit into almost any wardrobe, but a denim shirt is a conscious choice. You might just want a dark blue textured shirt, but if you want a denim shirt, you’ll most likely want workwear or western details. Although there is some overlap between these atmospheres, we will discuss them separately.

The main details of the workwear are: two chest pockets with horizontal flaps; You may also see some type of contrast stitching in the buttonholes. The vibe you’re going for will be rooted in the aging of the denim, so you may want a relatively thick fabric that can be worn out. It’s as if the shirt has a story.

Western shirts are a little more interesting if you ask me. I recommend dark denim with prominent gold stitching, a go-anywhere chevron, pearl snap buttons, and two serrated chest pockets. Long point collar. It’s still a heavy fabric. Yes, I understand, I have a very special idea in my head.

Again, chambray and denim are completely different weaves. But many brands out there, inexplicably, talk about “denim chambray” shirts or use the terms interchangeably. These are not interchangeable. Even though they are the same weight and have the same color, denim and chambray feel different and age differently.

That being said…I want a chambray shirt. It’s a very good shirt.

Hmm, I don’t really want to write about this part.

Overalls have been around for a while, but their early history is hazy. It was used as workwear (especially for slaves) in the 1700s, if not earlier. However, these are not clear-cut, as the term is also used to refer to outerwear (which actually makes sense) and all other types of clothing. Some of Levi’s early patents mention overalls, but these were generally more like pants. They came with suspenders, but some didn’t have a “bib,” or part that covered the torso. Some were just overpants. They called this “waist overalls.”

Anyway, Henry David Lee, the founder of Lee Jeans, appears to have been the inventor of the “bib” overall. Carhartt also made some early pairs, but Lee was the one to patent the first. There is also some evidence that early overalls had removable bibs, but Lee’s bib was built into the garment.

For some reason, jumpsuits are not called overalls. That’s weird, right? You can also wear a jumpsuit over it. all Your…don’t worry about it.

Overalls have been used as practical workwear for most of history. Their common cultural image is therefore not just casual, but lower-class. After slavery, they were associated with sharecroppers, poor white farmers, railroad workers, and other manual laborers. Although these specific connotations have faded somewhat, the more general connotation of being clothing for poor workers still remains. Curiously, unlike jeans, double-knee pants, barn jackets, and other workwear, overalls were never fully adopted by white-collar and other workwear-loving urban workers.

However, overalls have had a cultural impact outside of their original workwear context, with occasional trends appearing in the 70s, 90s, and 2010s. No, I’m not pulling out a receipt. If you want to see Will Smith or the young Olsen Twins in overalls, use Google.

The first “decoration” we’ll discuss is color. In theory, denim can darken or lighten as a result of washing. However, there are 100 tangible and intangible factors that can change the exact shade of blue. What dye did you use? How much and for how long? Did you do something tragic? How absorbent is the cotton you are using? What was the atmospheric pressure where the fabric was dyed?

As mentioned above, rivet It was originally used to reinforce seams and other stress points. It has also become an iconic part of denim style. Most jeans and trucker jackets also feature metal buttons, and the back of the jeans almost always has a leather or faux leather patch.

Remember when I mentioned color twill On top of that? They include black and white twill, black and white weave, garment-dyed twill…the green twill from Aimé Leon Doll above, my purple and white 501s, and the bright orange raw Levi’s I once saw at TJ Maxx. Strictly speaking, none of that twill is denim. The photo above shows why it is important to draw this line. There’s nothing wrong with green twill, but it doesn’t fit the same niche that true blue and white denim covers. The history and culture of denim has not been passed down. It doesn’t have the same versatility. Should I buy green twill pants? Of course, if you wish. Please know the difference.

Also, denim may be I dyed too much– You may have intentionally dyed it too long or dyed it twice over the original dye to create a combination of two different tones, which may cause the color to fade differently.

miserable is an umbrella term for simulated wear. Some of the damage treatments are a little subtle. For example, stonewashing may cause only a small amount of wear, while other distressing effects can leave large holes in the jeans. Sometimes there is some kind of fraying. I’m not sure how it’s fraying, but there are actually no holes and the main fabric isn’t fraying. It’s just like there’s an added layer of fraying on top. This aging often doesn’t quite mimic how denim naturally ages, as explained below.

There seem to be many different designs printed I think it’s generally not a good idea to wear it over denim. We mentioned trompe l’oeil “denim” above, but you can also create a trompe l’oeil faux distress effect on real denim to create fake ripped knees that aren’t actually ripped.

You can also add patches over the denim. Boro Refers to a Japanese form of patchwork, often featuring visible patchwork using various denim fabrics. Sashiko Refers to the Japanese art of visible white embroidery. Together, these contribute to the idea of ​​accepting visible repairs. The idea is that mended clothes are more special because they have been worn, loved, and repaired rather than thrown away. Express your gratitude for good clothing. That said, both futa and sashiko are also used for new clothing, sometimes symbolizing a spirit of repair, but more often simply to create beautiful designs.

Another thing I think is great is that raw hem. That is, a hem that is obviously frayed because the edges are not sewn properly. Ethan M. Wrong writes about raw hems here.

Some people intentionally leave the hem longer, cuff Roll or fold the hem of your jeans. It is different from dress pants with a hem. For dress pants, sew the hem neatly in place, but for jeans, just roll up the hem.

Some people purposely leave the hem long and step on the entire hem. This makes the hem look like an uncut hem, but uneven. Damaged. They call it “heel bite.” It’s… I don’t know why that matters, but it does.

Ah, it’s here. Denim is a true savior. While stretchy pants sag and chinos, seersucker, and linen wrinkle, denim, especially good, durable denim, ages slowly and develops character over time.

Good denim can become soft over time. If you bought a pair online that was recommended on the internet, you may actually have been disappointed with the original… hardness of fabric. However, if you wear it every day, as /r/rawdenim encourages, it may eventually wear out the way you want it to. Part of the appeal of heavy, high-quality raw denim is that it’s durable enough to do so. Surprisingly, some of the participants on /r/rawdenim found that their jeans comfortable. Can you imagine?

Denim too fade. Specifically, indigo bleedand many dyes generally fade from cotton. Washed denim may fade slowly, and the brands that make it may have used all the techniques to slow it down, but raw denim bleeds with indigo and fades constantly for the rest of its life. Note that this can be a problem not only while washing, but also when sitting on a nice sofa. Oops, Indigo fell on the couch.

Even more interestingly, denim fades in specific patterns based on how it is worn and used. When you sit down, the fabric will shrink where your legs bend. Some of the indigo released from some fibers effectively dyes other fibers. The following pattern lines will appear on the jeans: beard or honeycombIt fits exactly to your body and the way you move. This creates a pair you Wearing something personal and unique you. Is that cool? Denim people think so. Sometimes denim dudes will just swallow a pair of well-faded jeans and say, “It’s fading!” Like it means something.

We’ve talked a lot about how denim ages. So what happens when you spend years of your life trying to achieve the perfect color fade and soften hard, heavy raw denim to perfection…and it rips? Well, people have become so attached to jeans that there’s quite a bit of an art form built around repairing them. Repairing is celebrated both as a sustainable practice and as an expression of people’s dedication to buying less and buying better.

Basically, there are two categories of denim repairs. Patching and reweave / darning.

patchwork It is the process of applying a patch to the front or inside out of the denim to hide the hole. Patchwork is at least somewhat noticeable, but even large tears are easy and cheap. It’s also a great way to show that your denim has aged nicely. BoroThe Japanese art of making patchwork look intentional, described above, but you can also use discreet patches to match nearby fabrics.

darning and reweave It can be done “invisibly”, but it can be more expensive or more difficult (especially for large holes). Re-knitting also allows you to extend hems and do other things that aren’t really suited to patchwork. The fabric may become a little stiff after re-darthing. Sashiko It may be used to make these repairs visible. Some other artisans may use other types of embroidery. visible repairsLeave a cute little flower on your jeans where the hole used to be.

Compiled by Derek Guy Great Twitter thread about denim repair.

Affordable; Osaka 5; Mid-market. high end;

First of all, you should be frugal. Here’s our guide to saving on Levi’s. Here’s our guide to saving money on your Wrangler. However, some people may prefer to purchase new denim.

This is a difficult question. Generally speaking…you shouldn’t spend too much on denim. All the brands you have heard of have a large scale and are able to make relatively inexpensive products using relatively good quality cotton.

High-end Japanese brands that charge $2-400 for a pair of jeans are kind of… bad value. As mentioned above, selvedge denim does not imply high quality, but mainly high production costs. Slabs are fun, but they are imperfect, and those imperfections are not difficult to reproduce on an injection loom. Many of these brands spend extra money recreating 1950s details, and those details are what we achieved. improved It’s been around since the 1950s, so it feels like reproduction for reproduction’s sake. lower quality. If you’re interested, I have a recommendation. But are you really interested in it? Most people don’t.

The most important things about jeans are the fit, the look of the material, the feel of the material, and the durability of the material. It has some detailed construction to make it more durable, but half the beauty of great denim is being able to wear it, see how it ages, and maybe even patch it. If you want pants that stay dark and uniform forever, you’re not a denim fan.

So…I generally We recommend cheaper brands here. If you’ve been following me for a while, you know that I don’t hesitate to recommend good things, even if they’re expensive. But I’m not saying you should waste your money if you don’t think it makes sense. We’ll talk about more expensive brands, but there’s no need to run to cheaper brands unless you’re disappointed.

If you want to learn more about quality and construction, consider visiting Rewoven. This person is good at such things. But I talked to him about this, and it’s just… good denim is bad, bad denim is good, and quality is a weird beast.

Some of the links below are affiliate links.

Affordable value denim

• If you’re based in the US, Levi’s is a great place to buy jeans. Yes, there is a 100% cotton option, with an entire filter’s worth of cotton, and all the elastin moments are gone. They also make more expensive denim.
• Wrangler. “Rigid” means raw.
  • Interestingly, Wrangler’s Rustler diffusion line sells in the $15-$20 range and is oddly recommended as very high quality. I can’t say anything about their labor standards, but…at this price…it’s not good.
• Most things are handled by Olderbest. This is a general category of Chinese brands that were originally sold on Aliexpress but gained attention for not being terrible, or actually being pretty good.
• From what I understand, Red Tornado is also one of the Chinese brands, but they sell it on Amazon. The prices are a little high, but since we sell directly from American buyers, we have a wide variety of denim.
• Unbranded brand. It’s a great value option for proper raw denim. Unbranded is a subsidiary of Naked & Famous.

Osaka 5

These five brands are historically important brands in Japanese denim. For more information, please visit Heddels. Again, selvedge denim is not very durable. It is considered superior in part because it is less cost-effective, less finished, and resembles old-fashioned denim, so it has no practical benefits.

mid-market options

These brands may be mid-market in terms of price, but they are special in a way that I know somehow. Most, but not all, of these options are raw denim. Most, but not all, of these options are Japanese brands or brands that use denim woven in Japan. Some specialize in faithful reproduction. Some are more innovative. Some are of high quality. The RawDenim subreddit has threads spotlighting many of these brands.

• Famous for being naked.
• Nudie
• 316. I prefer the RS cut.
• RRL is Ralph Lauren’s western wear-focused label and is generally considered to be pretty great.
• Buck Mason. Their full saddle cut is really good.
• Blue Blue is doing some cool things in Japan. It’s difficult to buy in America. I have the “jacquard denim” pants from there…They don’t seem to be available this season, but they’re very good.
• I’m not sure why, but Frame is famous for its denim.
• Rag & Bone is also famous for its denim. I love this Tencel blend overshirt. I usually just tuck it in and wear it like a regular shirt.
• Freenote Cloth makes some really cool clothes in America.
• Same goes for Imogene + Willie.
• The same goes for left field. If you want American denim, we still have it, it’s not the cheapest mass produced item on the market. Don’t say it doesn’t exist.

High end / designer / unique denim

It is a brand that goes beyond mere quality and cannot be found anywhere else, with special designs for rags, sashiko, and unique silhouettes.

• Studio Nicholson has a unique silhouette. Not as expensive as some options here.
• capital. Sashiko, rags, and the famous “century denim” (see Blue in Green, Heaven, Mr. Porter).
• Bizvim is also known for its sashiko, rags, unusual shoes, and its eternal love of John Mayer.
• I’m not a fan of the whole trompe l’oeil thing, but a lot of designer brands
• Khaite is a women’s brand known for its denim. I don’t know anything more than that.
• I see, I saw these jeans at Louis Vuitton the other day, and they’re kind of cool. Are the prices reasonable? no. Anything. I think that’s the point of this section?

Did I miss something?

I try to make these guides… comprehensive. If I missed something, please let me know. If not… Wow, I did a great job. Maybe you should share this article.

But seriously, I spent a completely unreasonable amount of time on this article. It would mean a lot to me if you could share, subscribe, or otherwise support me. No matter which part you read, thank you for reading. And please, please don’t make me do another one of these guides.